Beauty and mind: a conceptual approach to neurcosmetics

In recent years, the perception and representation of beauty have undergone significant transformations. What was once largely defined by rigid aesthetic standards is increasingly understood as a more inclusive and diverse concept, reflecting broad cultural and social transformation in how individuals perceive themselves and others.

This shift towards inclusivity is having a measurable impact on the beauty industry. For example, research shows that beauty brands certified as genuinely inclusive grow 1.5 times faster than less inclusive competitors, with an 18 % collective growth rate compared to 12 % for their peers[1]. This demonstrates that inclusivity is no longer just a social ideal but a commercial imperative as well.

Market studies[2] also reveal that consumer demand for diversity continues to rise: a majority of consumers prefer brands that demonstrate commitment to diversity and representation, and 45% of Gen Z and 50% of millennials indicate they would stop using brands that lack inclusivity or social responsibility.

At the same time, many consumers – particularly those from under‑represented groups – still feel that the industry does not fully reflect their identities or needs, highlighting both progress and remaining gaps in representation [3].

Consequently, the focus within the beauty sector has shifted from fixed, often unattainable ideals to a notion of beauty that embraces personal expression, diversity and authenticity. In this context, appearance is not merely an aesthetic attribute but increasingly recognised as part of individual identity and emotional well‑being.

Parallel to these cultural movements, the cosmetics industry is increasingly exploring how products can affect not only physical appearance but also emotional experience and psychological wellness. As a result, new approaches are emerging that integrate skincare with broader concepts of sensory well-being and emotional response.

One such emerging concept is neurocosmetics, which refers to cosmetic approaches that seek to interact with the skin–brain axis – the bidirectional communication between the skin and the nervous system – in order to influence both skin health and perceived well‑being. Although still an evolving field of research, neurocosmetics reflects growing scientific interest in the complex relationships between sensory perception, emotional states and skin biology.

1-. Beauty, well-being and inclusivity
Today, beauty is no longer framed solely in terms of physical appearance, but also in relation to how individuals feel in their own skin. Cosmetic routines are increasingly presented as moments of self-care capable of promoting relaxation, emotional comfort, and confidence. Sensory experiences – such as pleasant textures, fragrances, and visual aesthetics – can contribute to positive emotional responses and reinforce feelings of well-being.

Within this context, neurocosmetics are emerging as a promising field, exploring how topical ingredients and sensory stimuli may interact with the skin’s neurosensory system and influence emotional states.

1.1-. The multidimensional nature of well-being
Well-being is widely recognised as a multidimensional concept encompassing several interconnected domains. These include emotional well-being (understanding and managing emotions in a healthy way), mental (positive thinking, concentration, adaptability, open-mindedness), social (communication skills, building healthy relationships, mutual support, trust), spiritual (a sense of purpose in life, connection to something greater), physical (balanced nutrition, rest, regular physical activity), physiological (general health, hormonal balance, light exposure, medication intake), and sensory (the external stimuli that can induce positive sensations and emotions). All of these factors are interconnected. Cosmetics can particularly influence sensory aspects, which, in turn, can affect our emotions, mood, and overall mental state.

Within this framework, sensory stimulation also plays a key role. The skin is a highly innervated organ that interacts continuously with the external environment and transmits sensory signals to the central nervous system. Cosmetics interact directly with this sensory dimension, engaging the senses of touch, smell, and sight through textures, aromas, and visual cues. These sensory interactions can influence emotional responses, mood, and perceived well-being, highlighting the potential of cosmetic products to contribute not only to skin appearance but also to psychological comfort.

1.2.- The influence of social media and cultural shifts
Cultural transformations and digital technologies have significantly reshaped contemporary beauty narratives. Social media platforms have played a central role in democratizing beauty standards by amplifying diverse voices and representations. Recent studies indicate that 86% of beauty shoppers report that social media influences their purchasing decisions[4], highlighting the growing importance of digital platforms in the beauty ecosystem.

These platforms have also contributed to the democratization of beauty standards by amplifying diverse voices and representations. Online communities allow individuals with different skin types, ages, ethnicities, and identities to share their experiences, challenging historically narrow beauty ideals and encouraging a more inclusive understanding of beauty.

At the same time, social media has significantly contributed to the popularization of skincare routines and wellness practices. Beauty tutorials, product reviews, and daily self-care rituals have become highly visible across platforms such as Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube. For example, the hashtag #Skincare has accumulated more than 275 billion views on TikTok[5], illustrating the scale at which skincare and wellness content circulates online.

Engagement with beauty content on social media continues to grow. In 2025, content engagement in the beauty sector increased significantly, with views increasing by 40% and reach by 38% in 2025[6]. As a result, daily skincare rituals, mindfulness practices, and holistic lifestyle approaches are frequently shared online, reinforcing the idea that beauty is closely linked to emotional balance and personal well-being. These cultural shifts have encouraged cosmetic brands to adopt more inclusive messaging and to position their products within broader narratives of health, well-being, and lifestyle.

1.3-. The impact of psychological stress on skin health
Psychological stress can negatively affect skin physiology. Research shows that stress may weaken the skin barrier by altering lipid production, reducing skin hydration, and increasing transepidermal water loss. As a result, the skin becomes more vulnerable to inflammation and slower barrier recovery, which may contribute to the worsening of dermatological conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and premature skin ageing[7].

Recent increasingly supports the existence of a complex skin‑brain axis, highlighting the interaction between psychological stress and skin biology. Recent findings[8] show that chronic stress can weaken the skin barrier, alter skin lipids, disrupt the skin microbiome, and promote systemic inflammation. These interconnected biological changes demonstrate how emotional stress can directly affect skin function at a molecular level, reinforcing the link between psychological states and skin health.

These findings reinforce the importance of considering emotional states as an integral component of skin health. In this context, neurocosmetics represent an emerging field of innovation, aiming to address the complex interactions between the nervous system, emotional well-being, and the skin by combining dermatological science with insights from neuroscience and psychodermatology.

2-. The role of cosmetics in sensory perception and emotional wellbeing
Human emotions are closely linked to sensory experiences. Stimuli such as scent, touch, sound, and visual cues are processed by the nervous system and can directly influence emotional states. In particular, the olfactory system has a strong connection with brain regions involved in emotion and memory: smell signals are processed in the olfactory bulb and have direct connections to areas such as the amygdala and hippocampus, which helps explain why certain scents can quickly trigger emotional responses and memories[9].

Similarly, tactile stimulation has been shown to influence emotional well-being. Pleasant skin contact can activate specific nerve fibers associated with comfort and relaxation, contributing to reduced stress and improved mood[10].

Cosmetic products are often designed to engage these sensory pathways. The silky texture of a cream, the fragrance of body oils, or the refreshing sensation of a product can create positive sensory experiences, contributing to relaxation and enhanced perceived well-being.

2.1-. Cosmetics as tools for self-care and emotional regulation
Personal care routines can also be understood as acts of self-care. Daily practices such as moisturizing the skin, showering, grooming, or applying fragrance may contribute to psychological well-being by creating structured moments of personal attention. In fact, engagement in enjoyable and meaningful daily activities has been associated with improved mood and reduced stress levels.

Beyond their practical role, these routines can also function as intentional rituals that promote relaxation and emotional regulation. Repetitive and mindful actions, such as applying skincare products, can encourage present-moment awareness and provide a sense of pause in everyday life. In this sense, cosmetic routines may share similarities with mindfulness-based practices, which have been shown to reduce perceived stress and support emotional regulation[11].

When experienced as rituals rather than purely functional tasks, these practices can enhance feelings of comfort, reinforce a positive relationship with the body, and contribute to overall well-being.

2.2-. Cosmetics as a form of identity expression
Beyond their role in sensory experience and emotional regulation, cosmetics also function as tools for self-expression and identity construction. Appearance-related practices, including makeup and grooming, allow individuals to communicate aspects of their personality, mood, and social identity. For example, research[12] in psychology highlights that that body image and appearance-related perceptions are closely linked to self-perception and self-esteem, with positive body image associated with higher confidence and negative body image linked to lower self-esteem.

In this sense, cosmetics not only contribute to emotional well-being through sensory and self-care practices, but also enable individuals to express emotions, explore identity, and navigate social and cultural norms. This dual role reinforces a more inclusive and individualized understanding of beauty, where both internal experience and external expression are interconnected.

3-. Expanding the approach to well-being
Building on the growing recognition that cosmetic routines can influence emotional states, self-perception, and sensory experiences, neurocosmetics represent a term associated with an emerging approach in the beauty industry. This concept relates to how products might interact with the skin–brain axis, with the goal of influencing both skin health and perceived well-being.

The term neurocosmetics has been used to refer to formulations containing specific functional ingredients intended to interact with sensory receptors in the skin, potentially eliciting sensations that contribute to perceived well-being. While this concept is still in its early stages, and scientific evidence to quantitatively support such changes remains limited, the idea of neurocosmetics reflects an ambitious objective: to explore the complex relationship between the skin and the nervous system, offering a new perspective for cosmetic development.

It should not be understated, however, that this field remains under-researched, and there are currently no conclusive clinical results demonstrating these effects. Moreover, the term neurocosmetics has no legal basis – similar to how cosmeceuticals were previously marketed – and so at present functions largely as a conceptual label.

Cosmetics legislation provides a framework to define what is in its scope, i.e., what a cosmetic product is. According to Article (2)(1)(a) of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009[13], cosmetics are legally defined as “any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours”.

On this basis, cosmetic products are legally distinguished from medicinal products, which fall under a separate regulatory framework. A medicinal product is defined as a substance or combination of substances with view to restoring, correcting or modifying physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action.

To provide guidance and support industry and Member States in cases of uncertainty, the European Commission has published non-binding manual[14]. Furthermore, EU law for cosmetics requires operators to substantiate claims in accordance with Article 20 of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and six common criteria set out in Regulation (EC) No.655/2013. In this context, the use of the term “neurocosmetics” for marketing purposes could also be considered misleading to the consumer.

Consistent with this existing regulation, the Psychodermatology Task Force of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV) has issued a warning regarding claims that cosmetic products can exert significant “cerebral effects” or psychotropic actions through blood circulation. According to the Task Force, statements suggesting that cosmetics can directly have effects on psyche, depression, anxiety, or other central nervous system functions are misleading and fall outside the scope of what is considered a cosmetic[15]. In fact, the organisation concludes that such claims may also constitute misleading advertising and should be avoided to ensure consumer protection and regulatory compliance.

Therefore, the term neurocosmetics is purely conceptual framework summarising the study of how topical products may influence sensory and emotional pathways in the skin rather than a term holding any definitive scientific evidence or regulatory support.

4-. Skin sensory receptors and their influence on well-being
The human skin is densely populated with sensory receptors, averaging around 200 per square centimeter, which detect a variety of stimuli, including pressure, temperature, vibration, and chemical signals from substances in contact with the skin. These receptors send sensory signals to the central nervous system, where they are integrated with other neural inputs. In some cases, this integration contributes to emotional responses; for example, a gentle touch or a familiar scent can remind us of a pleasant memory or a comforting place, helping us feel relaxed and at ease.

Neurocosmetics is based on the principle that certain ingredients can interact with these receptors, providing sensations that may positively affect perceived well-being. Although research directly measuring the activation of skin receptors by cosmetic ingredients remains limited, interest in the field has grown rapidly[16], with scientific publications on neurocosmetics increasing substantially over the past decade.

Natural ingredients commonly used in cosmetic products – such as essential oils, plant extracts, and natural fragrances – can interact with skin receptors in various ways. Certain plant extracts have been suggested to stimulate the release of endorphins, including Rhodiola rosea[17], Achillea[18], or Tephrosia purpurea[19]. For instance, the latter has shown in vitro effects, reducing cortisol levels while promoting the production of β-endorphins and dopamine through the regulation of genes involved in antioxidant activity and skin cell renewal. Additionally, hemp-derived compounds like cannabidiol (CBD) may interact with receptors of the endocannabinoid system, which are present in both the skin and nervous system[20].

Other cosmetic ingredients, including biomimetic peptides, are designed to mimic natural skin molecules, acting as messengers to regulate localised biological activity and performing various functions. While many of these peptides are synthetically produced, research is beginning to explore natural sources, such as plant proteins, from which peptides can be obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis. For example, a peptide derived from Angelica gigas nakai, which is believed to have efficacies of anti-wrinkle and skin lightening[21].

Neurocosmetics offer a new perspective in skincare by emphasizing the link between the skin, the mind, and our mood through the stimulation of sensory receptors. By using natural ingredients that engage these receptors, cosmetic products can create moments of pleasure, promote relaxation, and foster a sense of confidence and well-being.

5-. Conclusion
Natural and organic cosmetics illustrate how the beauty industry can integrate sensory well-being, ethical practices, and sustainability. Botanical ingredients such as plant extracts, essential oils, and natural fragrances not only provide functional benefits for the skin but also engage the senses, contributing to a holistic perception of well-being. Beyond individual experience, natural cosmetics reflect broader societal values, including environmental responsibility, ethical sourcing, support for local communities, and respect for animal welfare. Certification schemes, such as NATRUE, play a key role in ensuring transparency and consumer trust, helping to reinforce these standards.

At the same time, neurocosmetics represents an emerging conceptual framework rather than a regulated category. It highlights the intricate links between sensory perception, emotional states, and skin biology, offering a lens through which the beauty industry can explore well-being beyond appearance. While research is still evolving, this perspective encourages a deeper understanding of how daily cosmetic routines can engage the senses and influence individual experience, emphasizing that beauty encompasses both mind and skin.

This article was written by Paula Gómez de Tejada, NATRUE’s Global Communications and Public Relations Manager. It was originally published in EuroCosmetics.

References:

[1] https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2024/09/04/2940738/0/en/Inclusive-Beauty-Brands-Grow-1-5X-Faster-than-Less-Inclusive-Brands-According-to-Research-from-Circana-and-SeeMe-Index.html

[2] https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/news/news/22934824/inclusivity-is-good-for-business-period-new-seeme-index-data-reveals-beautys-top-performers

[3] https://tks-hpc.h5mag.com/hpc_today_2_2025/inclusivity_-_beyond_the_hype_why_inclusivity_in_beauty_must_be_more_than_a_trend

[4] https://wifitalents.com/digital-transformation-in-the-beauty-industry-statistics

[5] https://tiktokhashtags.com/hashtag/skincare/

[6] https://www.dashsocial.com/social-media-benchmarks/beauty-industry

[7] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30614527/

[8] https://www.the-innovation.org/article/doi/10.59717/j.xinn-life.2025.100167

[9] https://news.harvard.edu/gazette/story/2020/02/how-scent-emotion-and-memory-are-intertwined-and-exploited/

[10] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0896627314003870

[11] https://www.nature.com/articles/s41562-024-01907-7